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It was recently brought to my attention how hollow the word “authentic” is. When describing food, what does authentic even mean? And, who exactly is qualified to determine whether any kind of food is authentic? Think about it. There are very few people around here who have traveled, eaten and are cultured enough to know the history, regions and original flavors of the many foods we eat, regardless of the cuisine. Authentic is easily one of the most popular words used to praise food, but should it be?
Filled with complex flavors and friendly faces, China Restaurant in downtown Tonkawa opened seven years ago and is a bright spot in the community. Deciding to open a Chinese restaurant in a rural Oklahoma town with no Asian options may not seem like the obvious choice, yet that is exactly what drew owner Dehui (Patrick) Lin to the area. Originally from Fujian, China, Lin moved to the States as a teenager and worked his way up as a restaurant manager on the East Coast. After meeting in Boston, Lin and chef Quan Chen decided to team up and open a restaurant in a place that did not offer Chinese cuisine. The historical space with walls drenched in mustard yellow in a small, Oklahoma college town felt like the perfect spot.
The Orange Chicken is a standout here. Thinly sliced pieces of chicken are lightly coated and fried, then drenched in a sweet, tangy sauce. The orange is fresh and forefront in this sauce. It has sweetness, acidity and just enough tanginess for balance. While the sauce is the star, notice how well the fried chicken holds up to the sauce without becoming soggy. The chicken keeps the texture of the breading, less pronounced than it would be without the sauce, but it’s there. And it’s fantastic.
We all know fried rice, but the Roasted Pork Fried Rice at China Restaurant is legit. The rice and the veggies are cooked perfectly, and the roasted pork tenderloin sets it apart from the rest. Aromatic with crispy bits of rice mixed throughout, it hits the spot every time.
Food evolves, just as the people who prepare it and eat it evolve. Simply because a traditional dish is given a facelift does not mean it has lost what made it a great dish to begin with. Authenticity is subjective. Wontons are one of the oldest types of Chinese dumplings, however cheese wontons are a mixture of American and Chinese cuisines. That doesn’t make them less delicious or authentic (note: the cheese wontons at China Restaurant are fabulous). The flavors and techniques that China Restaurant is using to create these dishes may not be completely traditional, but they are completely mouthwatering. Happy Eating!!
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